Le cycle de vie d'un bijou
The result of ancestral craftsmanship, jewelry is a true work of art. Rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings: these pieces of jewelry have carried complex symbolism for millennia. On every continent, jewelry is intrinsically linked to issues of political, cultural and societal organization, making it not only a ceremonial object, but also a multifaceted artifact. At times amulets, objects of authority and power, fashion accessories, they shine through their proteiformity.
But how are these jewels of beauty made, and what is their history? From extraction to transformation, zoom in on the life cycle of a jewel and the stages that make up its design.
A little history...
The use of symbols has always been an integral part of human interaction. Jewelry takes on this metaphorical character, reflecting fragments of life and personality. Key elements of our civilization, they have evolved over the course of history, allowing us to follow the progress of our societies and our thinking.
The symbolism of jewelry goes back as far as ancient Greece and Egypt. In these ancient civilizations, jewels not only embodied status and power, but also possessed protective virtues. It was from this period onwards that jewelry was attributed magical properties, a belief that reached its peak in the Middle Ages. Precious stones were used as amulets to ward off illness and bad luck. Fertility, love, power: they bring good luck and can bewitch.
But it's really during the Renaissance that we can speak of a golden age. Precious stones and jewelry materials were studied with great care, resulting in unprecedented pieces of goldsmithery. Jewelers became true craftsmen, recognized and renowned in all spheres of society.
Today, our jewelry always carries a complex symbolism. Our grandmother's gold brooch is an heirloom passed down from mother to daughter, the ring your partner gave you embodies the ties that bind you together, the pair of earrings you bought last week reflects your individuality...
And while your bond with jewelry begins the moment you slip it on your finger, neck or wrist, its story doesn't begin there. Let's take a look at the genesis of a necklace, a ring or a bracelet.
Extraction & processing
STEP 1: Mine extraction
The different types of deposits
In the beginning, there's a mine. Diamond, ruby, sapphire: these coveted gems that will adorn the jewel of the near future are hidden for the time being in the bowels of the Earth. Their crystallization took place over millennia before mankind dug down and discovered the existence of these gems. Diamonds are carbon minerals. They are extracted from kimberlite, an ultramafic rock found in the oldest parts of the continental crust. This is why they are found mainly on the African continent, which today accounts for the bulk of the world's production.
There are several different deposits where diamonds can be mined:
- Primary deposits: open-pit and underground mines.
- Secondary alluvial deposits (watercourses): mostly artisanal, more rarely industrial extraction.
- Coastal marine deposits (shoreline and seabed): using earth-moving equipment and/or explosives, the aim is to reach the diamond-bearing gravel.
In order to regulate the industry and its practices, controlled procedures have been drawn up to provide a guideline for players in the sector. Since 2003, 81 countries have followed the "Kimberley Process", a control protocol guaranteeing that the origin of diamonds is not used in armed conflicts. In order to offer its customers ethical jewelry, Leïla Buecher ensures that the diamonds adorning its jewels are certified by this label.
This system is based on the collaboration of countries committed to strict standards for the diamond trade. Diamonds must be collected, certified and sealed in certified containers prior to export, thus ensuring total traceability and transparency. The main aim of this process is to prevent the financing of armed conflict through the diamond trade, thus contributing to a more ethical and responsible diamond market worldwide.
Many jewelers are also turning to recycled gemstones to limit their impact on the environment.
STEP 2: Sorting and processing
Once extracted, rough gemstones are classified by size, color, shape and other physical and chemical characteristics. It is estimated that only 20% of production will be used for jewelry, while the remaining 80% will be used in industry.
This minority of stones is then cut and polished.
Raw materials market & certification
Selling precious stones
Once polished, the gemstone is ready to be marketed. It's worth noting that the trade in some gemstones is more regulated by law than others: this is particularly true of rough diamonds. This is one of the reasons why, at Leïla Buecher, working with diamonds is particularly close to our hearts.
To get a better idea of how these gems are sold, we need a broader understanding of the organization of the international rough diamond trade. 3 major companies account for over 85% of the world's diamond production.
Each company sells its diamond lots via its own sales channels: by contract with diamond dealers or via auction. De Beers, for example, sells to carefully selected wholesalers and manufacturers, while Alrosa and Rio Tinto sign contracts and sell monthly batches of diamonds.
Apart from these diamond giants, there are also a number of small-scale operators, but these are often semi-industrial or even artisanal operations that don't carry much weight in relation to the behemoths.
Then there are the bourses, specialized in rough and cut diamond trading, located in Antwerp (Belgium), London (UK), Tel Aviv (Israel), Bombay (India) and New York (USA). These exchanges are reserved exclusively for professionals.
Certification
Trade means respecting the rules that surround it! As explained above, the rough diamond trade is governed by the Kimberley Process certificate. The rules are as follows:
- Diamonds are collected on a national scale.
- They are then certified and sealed in certified containers.
- The government certifies the sealed container with a serial number.
- No diamond can be shipped or exported without this certification.
- Diamonds can only be traded between Kimberley Process signatory countries.
- Countries at war and non-signatories to the Kimberley Process are not allowed to transit their stones.
Jewelry manufacturing
When the jewelers finally get their hands on the gemstones, after their long journey, the creation of the jewel can finally begin. Depending on the metals, the gems used and the skill of the craftsmen, the process can vary.
STEP 1: Drawing and modeling
The first step is to conceive the jewel's design. The sketch must not only take into account the jeweler's creative ideas, but also the technical realization of the piece. The craftsmen put their drawings down on paper, using gouache paint for example, which enhances the diamonds and stone details. The work is then presented to the customer, in the case of made-to-measure jewelry. He or she can ask for the piece to be reworked, or accept the sketch so that modeling can begin. Indeed, more and more designers are using 3D modeling to create a mock-up for the mold. These computer-aided design tools enable you to produce a highly realistic 3D model, which respects manufacturing constraints.
STEP 2: Making the model
The next step is to manufacture the model. Once the 3D model has been produced, the next step is to print it. There are two ways of doing this:
- Manual wax More traditional, it is used for simple creations.
- 3D wax: now widely used by jewelry designers, it brings real added value to the quality of the details and the technical nature of the piece.
STEP 3: Cast iron
Once the model has been created, the next step is to cast the wax into metal (gold or silver, for example). To do this, the foundryman makes a "wax tree" by grouping together several waxes to create the plaster mold. This is then heated to melt the wax and remove it from the mold. Injected by pressure, the gold or silver then takes the place of the wax. The whole assembly is then cooled by plunging it into cold water to melt the plaster and release the cast-iron shaft. The individual castings are then detached. The jewellery-making can begin! Files, nibs, flies and erasers are the main weapons used to smooth the metal and enhance it, preparing it to be adorned with its stones.
STEP 4: Crimping
This is undoubtedly the most delicate operation, since it consists in attaching the precious stones to the metal jewel. Most often, this step is performed by the gem-setter using a binocular, ideal for precision work. The jewel can be set in several ways: closed setting, claw setting, rail setting, grain setting, depending on the designer's choice of finish, but also to emphasize the beauty of the stones.
STEP 5: Finishing
This is the final stage in the jewelry-making process, revealing the brilliance of the gold and giving the final piece its full lustre. To achieve this result, the polisher uses brushes and wires of varying hardness, which he greases with pastes of different grits. Depending on the design and desired final result, the craftsman can also give the jewel a satin or sandblasted finish.
It's the culmination of many years' work, the fruit of the complementary skills of our craftsmen! The ring the necklace or bracelet can finally take pride of place in the store or be sold to a lucky owner.
Sales
The jewel is ready, it's time to sell it! On the Internet, in stores or at markets: there are several sales channels, and as a retailer, you can multiply them. It's up to each salesperson to carry out a target and market study to determine which are the most suitable and will enable them to achieve their business objectives.
- Market sales: The websites of town halls and tourist offices offer places on markets in and around their localities on application. Traders can choose between itinerant or permanent status, by renting a space.
- In-store sales: This is the traditional channel par excellence, but also one of the most popular. And for good reason: selling jewelry in a boutique or workshop offers the advantage of proximity and the possibility of creating a real relationship with the customer.
- Selling on the web: Whether on an e-commerce site or a marketplace, offering your jewelry online is a good way of multiplying your sales.
Today's jewelry designers are tending to combine physical and online sales, to complement each other and target different buyers.
Maintenance
After purchase, the new owner must maintain the jewel to preserve its brilliance. Because, while it can be worn for decades and passed down from generation to generation, this piece of jewelry is also exposed to dirt, dust, perspiration and other factors that can degrade its quality.
To ensure that your jewelry survives the ravages of time, you need to adopt the right care reflexes. We recommend, for example, removing your ring before washing your hands or taking a shower, to avoid greasing it.
When the jewel is worn regularly, a lack of brilliance can be observed in the diamonds. These are simply deposits that have settled between the setting and the stones (due to the daily use of creams, gels, soaps, etc.).
To restore optimal shine, we recommend immersing your jewelry in a small bowl of warm, soapy water (washing-up liquid is ideal) for around 15 minutes. This will allow impurities to come away from the frame.
Then gently scrub the jewel with a soft toothbrush over, between and under the stones to remove impurities.
In addition to this regular maintenance, it is advisable to take your jewelry to a jeweler at least once a year for professional cleaning. And every 5 years for a complete overhaul
Transformation
Grandma's diamond ring, handed down from generation to generation for over 50 years, is full of family memories and emotions. Fortunately, these neglected pieces are never lost and can be transformed to give them a second life. This form of upcycling is becoming increasingly popular, giving jewelry a new destiny.
Gemmological experts who receive old jewels in their workshops can carry out a wide range of transformations:
- Ring reinforcement
- Pad addition
- Checking crimps
- Engraving motifs
- Cleaning
- Polishing
- Rhodiage
Modifications to the ring, necklace, bracelet or any other part depend on the owner's project:
- Refurbishing: this involves giving the jewel a new lease of life, which necessarily involves cleaning and polishing it. Precious stones and gold regain their brilliance and shine!
- Resizing: Jewelers are accustomed to requests to resize jewelry, particularly rings. The process involves stretching (to enlarge) or reducing (to shrink) the metal without damaging the gemstones.
- Engraving jewelry: To personalize a necklace, bracelet or ring, there's nothing like having initials or a phrase chosen by the owner inscribed on it. This is a frequent request for engagement rings and wedding bands in particular.
- Creating a brand-new piece: a complete makeover for creativity! Together, the jeweler and the owner first define the new design of the future piece of jewelry. The craftsman can either completely remake the jewel or give it a new shape. For example, a diamond can be preserved from a ring to make a necklace. - -
Resale
Since its extraction from the mine, the diamond has come a long way. The centerpiece of an engagement ring, it has been passed on to children and then grandchildren. It was then transformed into a necklace by its last owner, who now wishes to resell it. Several options are open to her:
- Jewelry: Some jewelry stores offer jewelry buy-backs, a simple and straightforward way to sell off your property quickly.
- Comptoir specializes in buying back gold and diamonds: They will be appraised and purchased by specialists (diamond dealers).
- Au ction: This is an interesting option for putting buyers in competition with each other and getting the best price.
- Online sales sites: Secure second-hand platforms make it easy to sell jewelry on the web.
Warning: before starting to sell antique jewelry, it's important to find out about the taxes to which the owner is subject. There is a flat-rate tax on precious objects (TFOP), which must be paid if the value of a piece of jewelry exceeds €5,000.
You will also need to provide the buyer with a number of documents:
- Certificate of authenticity: To prove the jewel's origin and attest to its authenticity. This can reassure the buyer of the jewel's provenance.
- Diamond certificate: Issued by an independent gemological laboratory, it details the diamond's characteristics (cut, color, clarity, carat weight). Certificates from reputable laboratories such as GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or IGI (International Gemological Institute) are generally well accepted on the market.
- Professional appraisal: It may be a good idea to have the jewelry appraised by a jewelry expert. This appraisal may not require an official certificate, but it can give the buyer a clearer idea of the jewel's value.
- Original purchase invoice: Where possible.
Recycling
Bought by a new owner, the jewel's life follows its course and the cycle begins anew. However, the cycle can come to an end if you decide to recycle the gold in a completely different form. To do this, several steps must be followed:
1. Harvesting. Jewelry made of gold is harvested.
2. Sorting. The gold is sent to the smelter, where it is sorted into purity levels according to its titration or carat number.
3. Melting. It is melted at a temperature of around 1100°C to recover it in its raw form.
4. Refining. The gold is then separated from the metals with which it was mixed (alloys) and freed of impurities. The result is 99.9% pure gold.
5. Reconditioning. Pure gold is reconditioned in the form of gold bars or gold coins for reintroduction into the markets.
A few figures on recycled gold
Today, recycled gold is all the rage, and more and more jewellers are using it to move towards more ethical and environmentally-friendly practices. To better understand this phenomenon, here are a few figures:
90% of recycled gold comes from jewelry;
The proportion of recycled industrial gold has doubled in 10 years;
For every 20 grams of gold extracted, 50,000 liters of water are used. The consequences of extraction on the planet explain the growing use of recycled gold.
Jewellers agree: recycled gold represents the future of eco-responsible jewelry, and is a viable solution to the environmental and social problems associated with gold mining.
Leïla Buecher: ethical jewelry
At Leïla Buecher, traceability is an issue close to our hearts. Because we want to create jewelry made from ethical materials, we keep a close eye on the provenance of our gold and precious stones. Not only is our gold recycled (RJC-COC label) and our diamonds certified by the Kimberley Process, but we also meet with all our partners.
Our aim: to minimize our impact on the environment and human rights, while offering unique, sustainable pieces. We believe that all jewelry is eternal, and that it carries memories, emotions and stories through time. That's why upcycling and recycling resonate deeply with our values: transmission and sharing.
